SATURDAY, FEB. 21, 2009
The weather in Jerusalem changes quickly. It has rained each night since we have been here, but during the day for the most part we have had dry weather. Today we started out for Masada in the rain, but as we drove further into the Judean desert the weather cleared and we looked forward to exploring Masada, an ancient fortress built by King Herod during his reign from 37 - 4 B.C. From there, we were going to the Hod Hotel for lunch and a luxurious swim in the Dead Sea or a special spa treatment.
Our guide told us that normally there are only two days of rain in the Judean desert and even though we drove through intermittent rain, none of us was prepared for the flash flood we encountered. Our first indication that something was wrong was a long line of tour buses and cars on the road in front of us. Our guide went to check out the problem and told us there was a flood coming down from the mountain and the road was impassable until the water stopped. He encouraged us to get out and see this unusual phenomenon.
We all went to see the rushing water and I got this picture, but it doesn't show the force of the water coming from the mountains. Several travelers were standing watching the water, when the stream split and they were briefly trapped in the middle of the flood. Fortunately, they were able to get across the water before it became impassable. But the experience got their adrenaline flowing!
We waited in line with the others for about 40 minutes and realized the water was not going to subside. Even though it was only raining slightly in the desert, there were torrential rains in Jerusalem--the source of the flooding. With much disappointment, our bus driver skillfully turned our bus around (by this time may of the other buses had already turned around) and we headed back toward Jerusalem. Our tour director, Timor Benichou, and our guide, Ralph Lewinsohn, did an excellent job of salvaging the day. They took us to a small beach on the Dead Sea where those who wanted to could swim in the Dead Sea and the sight even had a natural mud pit so those who wanted to could take advantage of a mud mask before entering the water.
We had lunch in Qumran and after lunch we visited the Qumran National Park and learned about the Essenes who lived and studied here for two centuries. They wrote and left in the surrounding caves a magnificent legacy that we now call the Dead Sea Scrolls.
When we returned to Jerusalem, we visited the Church of All Nations, which stands on the site where tradition says Judas betrayed Jesus. Adjacent to the church is the Garden of Gethsemane. We had to run through the rain to see the church and the garden, but it was well worth it. Even though we did not follow the program due to circumstances beyond anyone's control, it was still a good day. Tonight we had our graduation ceremony and farewell dinner. I am happy to say we all passed our "exam" with flying colors and received our certificates of achievement.
Tonight concluded the tour of Israel. Some of our group will go on to Elat tomorrow, and others of us will start for home. We have had a great time together and learned a lot. Everyone is saying the trip exceeded their expectations. I wholly concur. Many factors made this a wonderful experience, but two stand out--our capable tour director and guide extraordinaire, Timor and Ralph, who were excellent, and the wonderful alumni and friends from Ohio State, Michigan State, and the University of Colorado. We had a great time together and I hope our paths will cross again. This has truly been a memorable experience!
Thanks for following us through this blog. Feel free to share your thoughts with us by clicking the Talk to Us link on this page. I hope you have enjoyed your time with us.
-Nadine
FRIDAY, FEB. 20, 2009
Our touring day began on a somber note as we visited the Yad Vashem memorial. This is one of the largest Holocaust museums in the world. Our guide gave some brief commentary before we entered the museum and then for about an hour we worked through the exhibit at our own pace, stopping at the parts that were of most interest to us individually. There is no way you can view this museum in an hour--you could not absorb everything in four hours. Much of the exhibit is pictures and artifacts, but there are many videos of the events as well as testimonials from survivors. We were not permitted to take pictures as is the case in many museums, but one image that remains with me is a glass case built in the floor of one area of the exhibit with nothing but shoes of some of the victims. Even though this happened before I was born, seeing those hundreds of shoes helped me remember that these were all individuals like me with lives and families.
This was a very somber experience, but it made me realize how important it is that we remember these dark periods in our history and the inhumane things that are happening to people today around the globe. We must do all we can to stop these injustices.
After spending time in the museum, we were so fortunate to hear Holocaust survivor Eliezer-Ayalon tell his personal story. Although he lost his entire family in the Holocaust, he says he survived because he never lost hope. We were riveted to our seats as we relived that horrible experience with him. His story is truly remarkable and he has written about it in his book, A Cup of Honey. He did not have any copies today, but I will be reading this book when I get home.
While at the museum, we experienced a very special memorial to the children who died in the Holocaust. The memorial is a dark room with hundreds of small lights like stars representing the souls of those children. As you walk through this dark space, the names, ages, and place of birth of each of the children for whom they have records is read aloud. Although it is extremely sad to think about all the children who were lost, it is heartening to know they are remembered in such a profound way.
The last place we visited at the museum was a garden area dedicated to the many Christians and non-Jews who helped Jews escape death--or at least tried to. There is a tree planted on the museum site for every known person who helped the Jewish people during the Holocaust.
From the museum, we were on to the market. The Machane Yehuda Market was truly a different shopping experience! The market is an open-air area with many booths with vendors selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to clothing. And every vendor was swamped with customers buying what they need before the Sabbath. Stores and merchants in Jerusalem close their businesses in the mid-afternoon on Fridays, and they are closed through the Sabbath (Saturday). I am sure this is reminiscent of the market place 2,000 years ago. Many of us shopped along with the Israeli citizens and especially those selling falafel, the Jewish version of fast food.
Tomorrow one of our stops is the Dead Sea, and I think some of our group plan to take a swim! We have an early start so I’ll sign off now.
-Nadine
THURSDAY, FEB. 19, 2009
Today we visited The City of David: Old Jerusalem. We stood on the Mount of Olives, which overlooks the city. From that vantage point, we could see much of old Jerusalem as well as the newer part of the city, the remains of Herod’s Temple, and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.
Herod the Great built new cities, defenses for internal and external security, roads, and water systems. But his crowning glory was the Temple Mount in Jerusalem.
During the next 2,000 years, Jerusalem and Herod’s Temple were destroyed and rebuilt several times. Through a simulation presentation, we were able to see the original temple in all of its glory. Today the Dome of the Rock and the El Aktza mosques stand where Herod’s Temple stood. It is the holiest place for both Jews and Muslims.
Much of the original wall around Herod’s Temple was destroyed, but the Western portion of the wall still stands and is known today as the Wailing Wall. We spent time at the Wailing Wall and observed hundreds offering prayer there. While at the Temple Mount, we saw the place that the Catholic tradition says is where Jesus was crucified.
We concluded our tour today at a beautiful, serene place, the Garden of the Tomb. This garden is a memorial to where tradition says Jesus was buried. After a presentation, we were allowed to go into the tomb, which was a very moving experience.
Before dinner we were privileged to hear National Public Radio (NPR) correspondent Linda Gradstein present her professional assessment of Israeli-Palestinian relations. Her presentation was thought-provoking as she presented some challenges to peace in this region.
Tomorrow our Jerusalem adventure continues as we visit a poignant monument, the Holocaust memorial.
-Nadine
WEDNESDAY, FEB. 18, 2009
Since we’ve been in Israel, we’ve been learning about the Kibbutz system. This morning we toured the Kibbutz Lavi to view its principle industry (furniture) and how members live in this communal lifestyle. Our energetic guide (a member of the Kibbutz) gave us an informative tour sprinkled with her colorful commentary. During the tour we saw beautiful, healthy livestock, which is the foundation of the Kibbutz; they were formed as farming communities. The major export product of this Kibbutz is custom-made synagogue furniture. We were told that the furniture from Kibbutz Lavi is used in synagogues all over the world, including the United States. Children are the most important and precious resource of the Kibbutz; and we saw many of them laughing, playing, and just enjoying their friends.
In Israel it is against the law to cut down a tree without permission from the government. The war in Northern Israel caused huge damage to the Galilee forests. More than 3,000 acres of forest (750,000) trees were destroyed, causing serious ecological damage and scarring the landscape. Through the Galilee Forests Emergency Campaign tree planting project, people from all over the world have planted or made donations to have trees planted in their names. We did our part by each planting a tree in a designated area. Each of us received an official certificate for the tree we planted.
The highlight of our day today was lunch at the home of a Druze family in the village of Sophia in Haifa. When we arrived, our hostess was preparing the bread for the meal in an outside oven. We were welcomed into a large room in the home (equivalent to our living rooms) and invited to sit on chairs around the room. Today was a cool day, so the room was heated by a stove in the middle of the room. We divided into groups around small tables, our hosts brought large platters to each table, and we ate family style. The food was plentiful and delicious! This photo doesn't do it justice!
After lunch we started our journey up to Jerusalem. No matter which way you approach Jerusalem, you have to travel up. We arrived at the Dan Panorama Hotel about 5 p.m. We are in the newer portion of Jerusalem (only about 150 years old) and it is very impressive. Tomorrow we will tour Old Jerusalem, which will be a highlight of this trip.
Tonight we have dinner on our own, so many are out at local restaurants in the area. I am sure I will have some exciting things to share tomorrow, so stay tuned.
-Nadine
FEB. 17, 2009
Today has been a day of varying experiences and numerous emotions. Our first stop was the Mount of Beatitudes overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Our guide shared the inspiring words from the sermon said to be given from this very mountainside. There were visitors there from all over the world, and today many came from Nigeria. The joy they felt about being there was obvious as they left the small chapel built on the sight singing together in their native tongue. We felt the joy, too.
Although it was overcast at first, the weather cleared and we were able to sail on the Sea of Galillee. The captain of the boat asked one of travelers (Chris Rice, shown in the photo) to raise the American flag before we set sail and we all sang our national anthem. One of the crew members demonstrated the art of net fishing. He said the material that the nets are made of has changed over the years, but the technique we saw is the same one that has been used by fishermen on the Sea of Galilee for centuries. Unfortunately, he did not catch anything today.
Just before lunch the group had an opportunity to taste some wines of the region, and after lunch we had a short lesson on making olive oil by one of the premier producers in the world.
From there, we traveled to Syria to the Golan Heights where we learned more about the border conflict between Israel and Syria. Those who wanted to took a tour of an inactive bunker. Our guide explained how the soldiers lived and worked together there while the fighting was going on all around them. It reminded me that while this is a land of beauty and rich history and we are enjoying our trip feeling very safe, war is often a very real part of their daily lives.
Our last stop today was the Jordan River. While we were there we witnessed the baptism of several pilgrims, even though the high temperature today was only about 60 degrees.
We had another scrumptious dinner. Meals are served buffet style and there are abundant choices. The Israeli diet is tasty, but healthy, so we don't feel so guilty when we try to sample a little of everything. We are especially enjoying the large variety of salads, fresh fruits, and grilled meats.
You can tell we have had a full day because immediately after dinner our travlers wanted to get to our rooms to get some sleep in preparation for our adventures tomorrow. Our day starts at 8:30 again tomorrow so I am signing off.
-Nadine
MONDAY, FEB. 16, 2009
Our first full day of touring was packed with exciting sites and information! We began with a bus tour of Tel Aviv. Home to one fifth of Israel's population, it is the country's commercial capital and a dynamic center of contemporary culture. From the balcony of our hotel we enjoyed the view of the Mediterranean Sea and the white sandy beaches.
On our tour we saw distinctive Bauhaus school architecture introduced in the 1930s by German immigrants who came to Tel Aviv fleeing Nazi persecution. The white-washed Bauhaus style, also known as International Modern, is known for its elegant simplicity and functionality. In 2003, the Bauhaus District of Tel Aviv was declared a UNESCO World Heritage List site and listed under the name "White City."
Leaving Tel Aviv we saw more beautiful green hillsides and fields of fruits and vegetables (they even grow bananas!). Our guide told us that in addition to the intricate irrigation in the region, it is also the rainy season in Israel and that is why everything is so lush and green right now. It rained part of the day today, and our guide reminded us how desperately they need the rain to offset the dry season, so we tried not to complain as we periodically walked through the rain.
Caesarea is one of Israel's major archeological sites, built between 25-13 B.C. by King Herod the Great. This fascinating site was our second stop today. We saw the ruins of its deep water port and marveled at the sophistication of its planning and construction. Portions of the massive fortified walls and the impressive temples, palaces, the hippodrome, and the amazing amphitheater are still intact. The amphitheater is used for concerts even now!
Next, we had a traditional Israeli lunch at the walled city of Akko (historically called Acre), which is the most complete and well-preserved town in the Holy Land, outside of Jerusalem. Akko is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history dating back to 3,000 B.C.
After checking into our next hotel, Kibbutz Lavi Hotel, we attended an informative lecture on the origins and societal benefits of the rural Kibbutz (the Hebrew word for "communal settlement") system established in 1909. Our lecturer is a member of the kibbutz that owns the hotel where we are now staying. He moved back to Israel from Chicago about 30 years ago to help build the young country of Israel. He joined the Kibbutz and has remained dedicated to the communal lifestyle since then. After the lecture, we had a lively Q & A with our host, and our group continued the thought-provoking discussion over dinner.
The food on this trip is scrumptious! Our breakfast buffet was so extensive it was difficult to decide what to eat. We could choose from yogurt, cereal, fruits, and fresh pastries, made-to-order omelets or individual pizzas, and so much more! I will share more on the local cuisine later.
Well, our day starts at 8:30 tomorrow, so I will sign off for now. We are hoping for clear skies and no rain tomorrow so we can sail on the Sea of Galilee. I'll tell you all about it tomorrow.
-Nadine
SUNDAY, FEB. 15, 2009
The day has finally come and we are in Tel Aviv, Israel! We arrived at the Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv about 3 p.m. (Israel time - we are seven hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time), and fortunately everyone's luggage arrived at the same time!
From the airport we boarded a bus and traveled to the Carlton Tel Aviv Hotel. Our first impressions of Tel Aviv from the windows of our tour bus were:
- It is much greener than we expected. We saw lemon and possibly orange trees, and cultivated fields with several different kinds of vegetation. Much of this growth is facilitated by extensive irrigation.
- The sky line looks like many major cities in our country. The architecture in the city is very modern on the route we traveled today.
- Rush hour traffic is just as congested as any major city in the U.S. Although it is Sunday, it is just like any other work day here. Most businesses here observe the Jewish Sabbath so the weekend consists of Friday and Saturday.
Our tour group is awesome as usual. Here is a picture of the group after dinner tonight - some of them have been up since 3 a.m. Saturday, but you can't tell by looking at them!
Our tour group is awesome as usual. Here is a picture of the group after dinner tinight--some of them have been up since 3 a.m. Saturday, but you can't tell by looking at them!
We are having a great time getting to know each other and we are traveling with spirited alumni from The University of Colorado at Boulder and Michigan State Alumni Associations.
Our actual tour will start tomorrow morning, when we will see more of Tel Aviv and move on to Caesarea and the port city of Akko. The educational focus will be on the Kibbutz, so stay tuned to learn more about this uniquely Israeli experience.
-Nadine
FEB. 2, 2009
In a little less than two weeks, my fellow travelers and I will begin an exclusive educational journey to Israel. The current state of Israel was born in 1948, but the historic land that stretches from the Mediterranean Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba up to the Dead Sea and beyond the Sea of Galilee has been a focal point for three of the world's major religions for centuries.
During our 10-day tour we will travel through much of the country, including Tel Aviv, Galilee, and Jerusalem. As we study this region we will be accompanied by our on-site tour director, Timor Benichou, who was born in Israel and currently resides there. We will also have the opportunity to hear from Linda Gradstein, the Israel correspondent for National Public Radio for more than 20 years, throughout our trip and get her perspective on what many say is the last intractable conflict in the world today.
When you think about Israel what thoughts or questions about the country come to mind? With the assistance of modern technology and some of my colleagues at the Alumni Association, you can follow us on our trip through a daily blog and perhaps we can answer your questions as we go. Send me your questions or thoughts through the "Talk to Us" link on the Association homepage (www.ohiostatealumni.org) before we leave on Feb. 14 and I will take them with me and try to respond through our blog.
I will share our impressions of the sites, cuisine, and daily life in Israel as we go. If you want to follow us through the blog return to this page often.
I have a lot of work to get done before we leave, so I am signing off until Feb. 15.
-Nadine